In the Market for a Pigeon?
by Richard Keshen
Loved by some, hated by others, the pigeons of Krakow, Poland are more plentiful than any other European city, with the possible exception of Venice. On any given day in the Main Square of Krakow, known as the Rynek Glowny, you’ll find hundreds of pigeons either flying about or soaking up the sun. Legend has it that the pigeons of Krakow are enchanted. However what’s not enchanting are the little presents that they leave behind!
At another smaller square in the Kazimierz district of Krakow called Plac Nowy ( New Square) the centerpiece is a round building that once served as a slaughterhouse. Today tourists and locals line up outside various windows of this round building from early afternoon until late into the night to partake of the offerings. The delicacy being served from these windows is an open faced sandwich on a crunchy French style baguette with a wide variety of toppings. They call these heavenly delicacies zapiekanki. Bring your appetite or a friend to share it as the zapiekanki is huge and after your first time of eating one you’re sure to be hooked.
Merchant stalls surround the round building daily with an open air trade happening here. On weekends there’s a vintage clothing market that fills the square, where you can find a large variety of fashions and accessories at ridiculously low prices. Cash only as credit is not accepted.
But it’s Friday mornings that has the most unique use of this square - the Friday pigeon market. In order to experience this early morning market you’ll need to get there at the crack of dawn because if you arrive at 9 a.m. then you’ve more than likely missed it. Men start arriving early with cages, suitcases and bags full of pigeons. (Sorry ladies, this seems to be a mens only event) And these are not the type of pigeons you’ll find flying free in Rynek Glowny. These are specially bred pigeons, the cream of the crop. The birds are brought out of their containers one at a time and displayed for their beauty and perfect breeding. Then the bartering starts and money changes hands as buyers slip their purchase into a pigeon carrying case which they’ve brought for transport. By 9 a.m. the market ends only to resume at the crack of dawn the following Friday. So if you’re in the market for a fancy pigeon then Friday mornings at the crack of dawn in Kazimierz’s Plac Nowy is the place to be. Just remember to set your alarm.
